Bought a Powerdyne 4.5psi supercharger a while back. Due to supply and demand it took a couple weeks or more to show on my door step. I later sold it to finance a new race engine. The notes are as good as gold though. So I'm planning on leaving them here for the good of the order so to speak.
Went with a 4.5psi unit for a couple good reasons; (1) safer on the engine parts and (2) requires less fuel system/pump mods, etc. In my case I was glad I owned the '95 Z28 and did not have to deal with any mods outside of what comes in the kit and manual. However, that does not mean that an improved fuel supply won't make it run even better. To upgrade to a 6+psi unit I have also added a NOS inline fuel pump and replaced the stock injectors with some SVO/Bosche 24# units. Then a 6psi pulley and belt and away I go.
The Powerdyne manual could use a good rewrite. It is 90% correct. But it does leave a lot of small, yet helpful, things out leading to a bit of educated guessing. For example, it would have helped if it would have included some suggested new spark plugs vs stock heat range replacements. I had a heck of a time trying to decide which colder range plugs to go to in order to reduce any risk of detonation. Same goes for telling you that it might be best to swap to a 160 thermostat. Just little things like that...
Anyway, what I'd like to do is tell you basically what you go through to install the Powerdyne and then what to expect afterwards once you fire it up and go for a test flight. Along the way I'll dispel any rumors and generate a few of my own. I know some of this may be a drag for those who have already been there. But for those who are wondering here goes.
First off this kit can be installed by even a total rookie mechanic like myself, so long as you take it slow and easy. If you are like me, and have always found other pass times (vs tinkering with cars) while growing up, then you should first locate a mentor just in case something you read in the manual just doesn't quite sink in on the first three passes.
Next read the manual and follow it step by step taking detours only so long as you are sure they will get you over the hard parts easier. Trust me, a few detours are in order. For example, I reinstalled my cooling fan just to see if I really needed to cut out the notch as suggested in the manual only to find that it was not even necessary. Had it really been needed then that install time would have been wasted. But I lucked out. So don't be shy to try things your way. But keep the manual handy if you have to go back and follow the map.
One of the first tricks I found was to locate a couple milk jugs or something clean to save the coolant in. When I drained my coolant I ended up with about 1.2 gals even though I was prepared for 4+. I saved 99% of it and used it to refill at the end. You'll need a funnel to drain the coolant also.
Next buy some new plugs. I went for some which are one heat range cooler. And I took a detour during evening two of the project to find out that reading the F-body FAQs about removing the Y pipe and alternator REALLY IS the best, and darn near the only way, to change the plugs... TRUST ME. In fact, hind sight being 20/20 I would pull the Y pipe and alternator right off the bat, then I'd start tearing down the air intake, pump and cruise control, etc. per the instructions and then change the plugs. After that I'd go back to the book and relocate the other parts as specified.
One more note. The instructions call for cutting the two tubes to the oil cooler (if you have one) a certain way. But the diagram does not show the cross brace between the tubes. It would be best to make the cuts in a way which retains the cross brace even though it is not mandatory. I also found that some of the hoses are not as long as one may wish and some extra wire and a "spring lock disconnect tool" for removing the fuel lines, during the fuel regulator install phase, would have been nice to have in the kit too. Plan ahead and locate little things like this first - such as a 1/2" 20 die and tap, a round file, a 7/16" drill bit, all imaginable socket sizes, a plug socket, jack stands, etc. Again, it would be much better if a complete tool inventory list were in the manual. But it isn't, so good luck.
Anyway, here's the used kit I finally ended up selling. I have noted what was and
was not in the kit I sold. Left this photo here mainly as a reference.
The job tends to go in several phases as follows (which I spread over 5-6 nights myself)...
1 - Run tank dry and fill at least 1/4 way with 92 octane fuel.
2 - Disconnect fuel pump power wire under rear of car near gas tank. Remove gas cap.
3 - Start COLD engine and run until gas is depleted and it dies (thus draining the fuel
line for later).
NOTE: The manual says to turn the engine over until the balancer arrow points straight down. What a pain!! It never did in 100 tries. First off it is not necessary as the step later in the manual about swapping a weight to the new balancer pulley is not needed anyway. Also if you do my suggested step 3 above you will be out of gas anyway. Besides, if you use a long handled socket wrench chances are real good you will be able to move the harmonic balancer to the down position manually, with a little effort, once the car is on jack stands. Hummm.
4 - Disconnect battery ground (after you note your security code for your AM/FM unit
if you have a security system like I do).
5 - Remove alternator.
6 - Remove stock air intake components per manual.
7 - Remove air pump and ignition coil per manual.
8 - Now, jack the car up about 1.5'-2' on safe jack stands.
9 - Remove and install new fuel filter (buy if you do this step).
10 - Drain coolant and, while you wait, remove Y pipe.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the sway bar per the manual unless you want to. It makes a great hand hold when crawling under and out from under the car if you leave it on.
11 - Remove left cooling fan, drive belt and balance pulley per manual.
NOTE: A better (and perhaps easier) option would be to unplug the wires to both of the cooling fans and any hose(s) run through their respective clips attached to the fan bracket. Then simply raise the fan bracket (with fans still attached) up so it clears the four bracket hangers that the fan bracket rests in. Then simply drop the fan bracket down and out of your way. This beats fumbling around for those hard to reach screws and gives you all sorts of room to work on the front of the engine.
12 - Perform oil cooler line modifications per manual. Use a little silicon caulk or sealant
when making new fittings too.
13 - Throw in a 160 thermostat if you have one handy too (also helps prevent detonation by keep
engine cooler so they say).
14 - Change the plugs per FAQ on the list. Get correct plugs and gap .035" to .045". Replace
Y pipe and alternator.
15 - Relocate the cruise control per the manual, winging it a bit as the instructions are not
that clear. I also routed the speed cable through the sway bar bracket in the process to make
it reach better.
16 - Relocate the smog pump per manual.
17 - Cutting the splash guard removed before the relocate steps is also optional depending on
if you want to keep it in one piece or not. Your call on that one. I figured out a way to get
this back on by only cutting one slice in it and folding it around the air duct work. That
way if I ever return the car to stock I won't be forced to buy a new splash guard.
18 - Do various air and coolant plumbing work (have a good hack saw blade handy).
19 - Finally install the supercharger brackets and unit per manual. Don't drop it on your
head (helps to have a helper too).
20 - Install drive belts. I installed my tensioner wheel above the new drive belt to the
supercharger per the manual. However, it is possible to put it below. From what I can tell it's six
of one and a half dozen of the other. In my case I used a belt, made a loop and hung it
over the tensioner shaft and hung down on it while I tightened the set bolts in order to
get it to tension on the drive belt fairly snugly. If you install from below you should
be able to push up from below as you tightened the bolts.
21 - Do the lower air intake, MAF sensor, and air filter plumbing per manual (see notes below).
22 - Replace the fan with or without doing the mods to it as needed per manual.
23 - Make IAT sensor changes to upper air intake between SC and throttle body per manual.
24 - Relocate coil per manual.
25 - Install fuel regulator per manual.
26 - Refill radiator and overflow per manual.
27 - Check all bolts and fittings, etc. Did you put the Y pipe back on?
28 - Reconnect battery. Check drive belts one more time.
29 - Turn key to on and check for fuel leaks (which I forgot to do)?
30 - Start car and if it actually starts (unlike mine which by now had a dead battery for
some strange reason) let it warm up a little and then kill the engine.
31 - Bleed the coolant lines using the two bleed valves near top of water pump.
NOTE: This VERY IMPORTANT STEP I have yet to find in the Powerdyne manual? I'm just glad my mentor reminded me about this one!! I sure never would have thought of it.
32- Drop it down and go for the drive of your life. But take it easy for 200+ miles to break the puppy in right.
BAD NEWS:
My Powerdyne actually made two kinds of noises. One is normal and is the very quiet "jet turbine" whistle, which I could live without but sorta like now that I'm used to it. But the other noise had me stumped and it seemed to only happen while the SC unit was cold. This sound was like someone blowing into a beer bottle real loud... a kind of base or tuba noise. When I called Powerdyne about it they said it was "pretty common" and should go away once the internal fiberglass drive belt breaks in or something like that. It did go away after a couple miles of warm up. But it never went away for good after some more breaking in had happened. We eventually found out that this noise was caused by a bad or "noisy" bearing. One more thing Powerdyne should note in their manual. Anyway, they finally repaired it within a week of when I pulled the unit and sent it back to fix.
[BTW... the Powerdyne unit can be removed or disconnected and you can use the orange rubber sleeve around one of the blue sleeves to actually attach the filter and MAF sensor to the metal elbow leading into your throttle body and run the car with normal intake that way as needed. It's tight, but it works if need be. Pretty cool feature if you ask me.]
I also later found out that the air intake ducting had a couple weak links, so to speak. Powerdyne should have fix these by now, as I informed them of such. One problem was the "banjo elbow" supplied in the kit. When I used the provided hose clamps to attach it to the intake of the SC via a short rubber neck it heated up (near the engine block) and collapsed causing an air intake leak. So I have replaced this elbow and the supplied flexable ducting with some orange colored, 500 degree temp, 3.5", flexible, silicon air hose. This stuff is very strong (and expensive) for flex hose but you need to make sure it is protected from rubbing against other things and wearing through also. And the only supplier I could find was Pacific Hose in Portland, OR (sorry no number so ask directory assistance).
The other weak link was in the two bolt connectors formed into the plastic ducting supplied in the kit. These connectors are hollow with a bolt hole through them. Thus, they too can allow air to leak in and bypass your MAF sensor. So they must be plugged with caulk before the install. Either of these conditions can allow air to get into your intake without being metered by the MAF sensor and fool the computer into providing less fuel than needed causing a possible lean condition. It's also possible that water can get in during a rain storm as well. So make sure all intake ducting is sealed up real well... but not so tight that the plastic parts collapse.
Finally, I suggest that you find a better way to plug the crank case vent hose into the passenger side valve cover. When I was racing one day the darn hose fell out of the rubber plug and onto my exhaust manifold. Next thing I know I see smoke in my rear view mirror during a practice session thinking I had just blown my engine. I came into the paddock, my crew chief opened the hood for a look see and the fire got enough air to burn real good. Luckily we had a fire exstinguisher or I may not have lasted the day. Others also have been burned by this one. After that I found a much better way to attach that hose using a threaded connector and a tighter seal. So be careful!
GOOD NEWS:
Now the good news folks. The unit is one hell of a power pump. I'm here to tell you it is worth every penny I spent for it and the extra HP is a real kick in the butt. And I loved catching cars in my rear view mirror... right after I blew by them on the race track.
Powerdyne Home Page - http://www.powerdyne.com/